Greetings Family and Friends,

Watch the video to the right to see a 65 year old kid. I imagine that for anyone,  getting to toot a ship’s horn puts one in touch with one’s inner child. Did for me! More on the ship, SS Meteor, later in this post. This post in general sees my first contact with one of the Great Lakes, specifically Lake Superior. Stayed in Duluth, Minnesota but sites visited necessitated trips north up the lake coast and across the state line to Superior, Wisconsin (about 1/3 the population of Duluth).

Enger Park and Tower is the place for that bird’s eye view of Lake Superior and the Duluth/Superior metro area. The park itself is beautiful and features a Japanese garden (visiting kids love sounding the bell). The tower is a few stories high and provides 360 degree views of not only the lake and metro area but also the countryside behind it. If one is not up to ascending the internal stairs within the tower, one can obtain similar views of the lake and metro area from a landing a short walk from the park. Down on the lakeshore, one finds Canal Park where one can stroll and take in various sites like the iconic Aerial Lift Bridge. Check out the gallery below for photos from both on high and down at lake level.
In Duluth resides, the first of two museum ships in the area, the SS William A. Irvin. A former flagship of the US Steel’s Great Lakes Fleet, it transported iron ore and coal from 1938 to 1978. At 610 feet in length, it feels large, but eventually its size was considered small in more modern times. In the gallery below, the early photos show the various crew accommodations which don’t seem that bad compared to the same on warships. However, the later photos show the rather posh accommodation afforded guests on the ship. Note how the poshness gets better as one ascends the deck levels. My recollection is that the typical cruise length was about a week in duration on the lakes. Lastly, on a somewhat unusual tangent, in 2025 there were a couple of paranormal tours for folks to investigate some unusual activity of a ghostly nature reported on the ship. My tour was during daylight hours.
The other museum ship, the SS Meteor, lies over the Saint Louis Bay in Superior. She is a whaleback freighter and while next to the water is actually grounded on land. The term “whaleback” refers to the shape of the hull – curved sides and flat bottom. Over her career, the SS Meteor hauled a variety of cargo: iron ore, grain, sand and gravel, cars, and oil. One interesting tidbit that one can see in the photos is how the original double hull of the vessel was modified to allow for more capacity – note the rectangular cuts into the inner hull. Even more interesting is that this was done prior to the freighter eventually being used to carry oil. Obviously not something that would fly nowadays. As to the tooting of the ship’s horn, only three are allowed to do so on each tour. Since my tour had only three, we all got a turn. Before the toots however, the tour guide steps off the bridge and uses a bullhorn to announce to the miniature golf course adjacent to the ship what is coming. Must be in case someone is putting for dough as in “drive for show, putt for dough”. Lastly, note the photos of some buildings near the museum ship – apparently NOAA has a presence in the area which may be of interest to some readers.

The Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center is in the midst of Canal Park near the Aerial Lift Bridge. It is much more than a visitor center, with its many museum quality exhibits including one depicting a lake freighter’s bridge as well as others showing various types of onboard accommodation. Lots of ship models which, of course, I thoroughly enjoyed. Note the first two right after the photos of the bridge. The first shows an ore freighter from the side at a specialized dock while the second shows the other side where the railway ore cars are positioned to load the ship. I actually saw this setup in both Duluth and Two Harbors. The visitor center also tracks both inbound and outbound freighters so that ship watchers know when they can catch views of such comings and goings.

The Two Harbors Lighthouse is roughly a half hour up the north shore of Lake Superior from Duluth. The lighthouse began assisting ship navigation in 1892. In  2001, the Lake County Historical Society took over the light’s maintenance and thus the lighthouse still provides navigational help to lake shipping. The photos of the living quarters are those of the assistant keeper’s house, as the chief keeper’s quarters are in a section of the lighthouse that is used as a B&B. One can rent the three beds, one bath accommodation for roughly $600 per night, year round. I don’t think I would be hardy enough to do so during the winter months! Also, note that the pilot house of the SS Frontenac is on the lighthouse grounds.

The Split Rock Lighthouse is another half hour up the road from Two Harbors. Its appearance and stoney perch made it an iconic landmark of the north coast of Lake Superior. My photos of the lighthouse from the site don’t really do it justice. Look on the internet for pictures of it from the shore or the lake to get a real feel for why it was considered the most visited lighthouse by the end of the 1930s. The lighthouse was in operation from 1910 to 1969. My feel is that it was a bigger operation than that at Two Harbors, given there was separate accommodation for not just one but two assistant lightkeepers. The main lightkeeper’s house was not in the lighthouse as in Two Harbors, and that was the house that was available to tour.

That’s it for now. As always, feel free to share this link with anyone who expresses an interest. Next stop is where one can always find the circus.

Until later,

Papi